Now that I have become re-acculturated to the sunny California lifestyle, I have time to reflect on
our travels and do some justice to the much-too-hurried vacationing we did prior to arriving here.
But first, on
such a positive note: My mom is
doing well, as good as I’ve seen her since we’ve been here. Maybe it’s being surrounded by the love
of her powerful daughters that does the trick.
Mama and her cubs |
First stop on the
list: Barcelona
As a
non-soccer-fan (but an avid soccer mom), I had only really known “Barça” as the
antithesis to Real Madrid.
Situated high on the east coast of Spain next to France, Barcelona is
Spain’s second-largest city after Madrid, and increasingly its rival in terms
of culture and economic impact.
Add the tension of a different language and proud history as well as an
ongoing separatist movement, and I found myself somewhat protective of my
adopted Andalucía and not sure what to expect of Barcelona.
Barça RENFE |
As we arrived
that evening at the train station, it was unavoidable: every sign, every
streetcorner, every shop,
EVERYTHING was in Catalan, with little or no Spanish translation. How could this part of Spain not speak Spanish, with Catalan as an accompaniment? But everywhere we went, the people were lovely, and
communication turned out to be easy.
With Oralia, Yasmin, and Nasreen Nabizadeh |
We stayed in a
mediocre flat near Antonio Gaudi’s famous Sagrada Familia. Accustomed as I am to the beautiful
castle next door to us, and the gothic, baroque, and neoclassical architecture
throughout southern Spain, I was both horrified and fascinated by this
building. Why was everything a mishmash of every possible style from Art Deco
through Bauhaus to Soviet-influenced proletariat Bible scenes? With a little classical gothic
thrown in? What WERE those
architects thinking, anyway???
What ARE those things on the tops of the spires? |
Modeled after the Evil Trees in the Wizard of Oz? |
But I absolutely
fell in love with the Gothic quarter.
Barcelona’s el Gotic is
grey-dark, gloomy, haunting, mysterious.
The narrow streets are bedecked with stonework and gargoyles, and it
exudes medieval enchantment and past worlds.
The cathedral
was gorgeous, everything I was missing in Sagrada Familia, with exquisite
detail everywhere you looked.
Pure 19th-century neo-Gothic |
Ancient Gothic? |
We spent two
days exploring these twisting ancient streets, finding beauty tucked away in
little nooks and crannies.
But Barcelona
wasn’t all gothic. The beautiful 19th-century Plaça Catalunya was home to hundreds of pigeons, fed by the tourists with
birdseed supplied by enterprising vendors. Tia and Sasha begged to feed them, and concocted a plan.
In Plaça Catalunya: Pigeons, watch out! |
And see, their
plan worked! Those fat, happy,
foolish pigeons were no match for these blond hunters.
Other parts of
Barcelona held interesting sights:
eyeballs hanging in modern profusion down the façade of a building (Todd swore they were video cameras), or an
old fountain juxtaposed with hip graffiti:
Here's looking at you |
Old and New |
With merely two
days to spend in Barcelona, we only saw a fraction of what the city has to
offer; this is a city we will revisit.
From the urban beach scene to the wide avenues to the marvelous
onslaught of every architectural style imaginable to the casco antiguo,
Barcelona charmed us. But
Paris beckoned, and we had to hustle to the downtown station to take our
trenhotel to the City of Light.
Next stop: Paris, France
Barcelona Sky |
Hi Stephanie, first of all I am very glad your mom is doing well!
ReplyDeleteAs usual, I very much enjoyed reading your insight about the different places of Spain -and Europe, Morroco, etc.- you have been to, as well as the pictures you post. It is amazing how sensitive you are to catch all the details, physical or not, of the places you visit and how you are able to describe emotions! Besos desde El Puerto :)