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Aall black and white |
One of the things I love about living here
in this area is that I can fully integrate myself into the Spanish lifestyle
here, and also get a kick out of being an American. There are multiple venues where the Spanish
and Americans intersect, and for the first time in my life I can navigate
pretty fluently between two worlds, and also enjoy fully these
convergences.
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Another great intersection: Alejandro is the son of our friends Mati and Ignacio, both very Spanish! |
One of the most obvious places of overlap
is the Base Naval de Rota. This base
belongs to Spain; they fly the Spanish flag, it is guarded by the Spanish Navy,
and it houses a large Spanish fleet, including their aircraft carriers. The United States leases part of the base and
operates there under the SOFA (Status of Forces) agreement between Spain and
the U.S., which was first signed by Francisco Franco in 1953 in exchange for
economic and military assistance.
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Franco and Eisenhower in 1953, when the first American presence in Spain was felt |
This year’s U.S. Navy Ball was held in the
gorgeous Jerezana bodega Gonzalez-Byass.
The crowd was a good mix of both Spanish and American, as the CO of the
American side of the base, Greg Pekari, and his wife Ebru have been very
successful at strengthening ties with the Spanish.
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Practicing our new moves |
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As Spanish as I can manage |
Then there was the smooth arrival of four
U.S. ships now permanently stationed in Rota (a first), which almost doubled
the U.S. population on the base, sending even more Americans out into the
nearby communities of Rota and El Puerto.
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Strolling off to the ball |
The setting was fabulous, as was the food,
catered by the famous Portuense restaurant El Faro. I couldn’t resist dressing as Spanish as
possible, and a friend announced to me, “Oh, when I told my sister that you
were American, she said she thought you were from Sanlúcar!” Ah, sweet success of at least looking
Spanish, as long as I keep my mouth shut!
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Mixing it up at the bodega |
Another think I love is making friends with
other like-minded Americans who love nothing more than to explore this region,
culture, and foods. Kell Killian is one
of those, a chef by profession who is here (like me) as a ama de casa while his wife works as the head OR nurse up at the
base hospital. Kell has made it his
mission to discover everthing—and I mean everything—cool about the surrounding
area.
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Kell and friends in the kitchen |
From visits to the local honeybee
farmers to checking out the local goat cheeses, to visiting his farmer friend
to take part in the carrot harvest, to making himself an expert in the private
small bodegas, Kell knows more about at least the culinary part of Andalucía
than I ever will! (And he even learned
how to dance bulerias!)
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And Kell has a sense of humor, too. |
And so it was
natural for him to host a Pulpo contest
one bright sunny September Sunday.
Everyone had to make a dish that used pulpo—octopus—in some way.
There were judges and prizes, and all-around good eats.
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Pulpo of all kinds! Chris's third-place Thai curry pulpo at the bottom middle. Fabulous!! |
With some 20-odd entries, the judges had it
tough, but my friend Mati’s traditional Pulpo
a la gallega won second place, with the first place going to some very
creative and non-traditional pulpo-mango skewers from Eileen!
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Mango avocado pulpo kebabs, yum! |
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The winners: Eileen, Chris, and Mati |
Again, there were about the same number of
Spanish and Americans, with plenty of Spanglish spoken. Todd felt right at home.
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Very traditional but absolutely delicious Pulpo a la gallega |
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Mati making magic in the cocina |
One thing that amazes me is that the
Spanish have taken a real liking to the very American Halloween holiday. I bemoaned the spread of Halloween in Spain
to my Spanish friend Carmen, saying how crass and commercial a takeover it
was.
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Carmen looooooves Halloween |
She came right back at me with a
cellphone full of photos of her cousin’s Halloween party, saying what a great
time she had, and how fun she finds this celebration!
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They strictly follow the spooky theme... |
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...and have a great time with it! |
And indeed, this is another fiesta where
Spain and the U.S. overlap. Our kids love to Trick-or-Treat up on base, and
they take their Spanish friends with them.
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All treats, no tricks. |
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Celia learns how to carve a pumpkin! |
We went to a Halloween party on the American side of the base which was well-attended by the
Spanish military folks, with plenty of crazy costumes. This year we re-invented our theme used two
years ago at Carnaval, the Runners of Pamplona, with a Halloween twist (but the
same old Bullrilla).
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Get ready to run...some more... |
Todd had to be a
nurse this time, along with Brent and Scott.
The rest of us needed nurses,
badly, to treat our road rash (courtesy of the Bullrilla and Montse the makeup
artist).
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Definitely the ugliest nurse ever... |
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...but he had some good competition from other lovely ladies |
So in the end, I get to have the best of
both worlds—my roots and homeland, and my beloved Spain, all mixed up together!
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Help...socorro...I think... |
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Las guapas |
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