In 1986, just as I was graduating from St. John’s College,
falling in love with Todd, and winding down my grueling aerobics
schedule, I was seized by the unquenchable desire to go back to Germany. I applied for and got a Fulbright Scholarship
for a year of study at the German university of my choice, to study the German
educational system.
This stroke of luck led me to the Universität Tübingen and
to Fichtenweg 11, the ugly student housing up on the hill overlooking the
picturesque town of Tübingen. There I—to
my horror—found myself surrounded by other foreign exchange students, including
a slew of Americans and Canadians, most of whom were determined to speak
English.
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Back in the day: Fichtenweg 11 |
But not Janice. She,
like me, was there to LEARN GERMAN, and really learn it, I mean, really become
fluent. She says she doesn’t remember,
but I do: we made a pact right from the
beginning to only speak German to each other, awkward as that was. The amazing thing was, we actually stuck to
it.
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Some things never change |
Janice lived down the hall from me, majoring in German from
Newcastle University in England, but she’s actually Scouse. Like from Liverpool. Or better said, Elsemere Port, just across
the river. She and I became fast friends
and even hitchhiked to E’Port from Tübingen during Spring Break to pick up her
car, a tiny Austin Mini, so that we could drive it back to Germany and have
even more fun for the rest of the school year.
It was the first time I’d really heard her speak English, and vice
versa, and to my shock I could hardly understand her.
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We drove this cute little thing through the Alps, too, all the way to Vienna--with 5 people inside! |
After that year in Germany, I saw Janice only sporadically,
a couple weeks in DC and California, a quick few days in London, an afternoon
in Los Angeles. But like true friends,
it didn’t matter. I was thrilled when we
moved to Spain to be within reach of easy visits back and forth.
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Janice and daughter Lili back in 2012, our first visit to London |
But that Janice…she had developed a phobia of flying, and
even though we invaded her London house a couple of times, it seemed like there
was nothing I could do to convince her to come see our palace, until—FINALLY—at
the 11th hour, in the last week of our time in Spain before we left
on vacation…she booked tickets.
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British Airways, the only way to fly? |
We had a full week of glorious Spanish sunshine, perfect to
lounge by the pool. Janice showed up
with her friend Theresa and her daughter Lily, and we enjoyed our palace and
its massive garden and pool.
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Our awesome palatial pool |
Next we planned a trip up to Cueva de Gato, a secret place
discovered by our friends Linda and Vida.
We organized an outing to this enormous cave, out of which flowed a
river, icy icy cold in comparison to the summer’s heat. We splashed and lounged, with the girls
jumping off of the high rock. We plucked
figs from the loaded trees with an improvised fig-picker, and relished the icy
water.
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Enjoying the sunshine |
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JUMP! |
Vida is the same age as Sasha and a year younger than
Tia. We invited Linda and Vida to join
us at the Fin de Curso dinner that was organized by our flamenco professor,
Jaime. But first, I was determined to
show my own music skills off to Janice by arranging a final Vale That concert
back where we started, at Bar Milord.
Juan, the owner, was thrilled to have us, and we again marshaled all our
friends to cheer us on. Janice, Theresa,
and Lily hung in there all the way through the last song! What troopers.
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The last gasp of Vale That |
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Coming full circle at Bar Milord |
The next night was the Fin de Curso. We arrived for the dinner at 9 pm, a
fashionable Spanish hour. In proper
Spanish form, dinner didn’t start until 10:30 pm, and finished up at
12:30. The show got started about 1
am; Janice, Theresa and Lily hung in
there. By 1:45, still waiting for Tia
and Sasha to dance, Vida went to sleep in the car. I sang my Mal Alma solo around 2 am, and Tia
and Sasha danced their magnificent alegria about 2:45. by the time I got onstage at 3:30 am for the
Fin de Fiesta and my chance to dance the bulerias, Linda, Janice, Theresa, and
Lily were in the lobby, on their way out. What a way to learn how the Spanish throw a
party!
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Getting our flamenco diplomas late, late at night |
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