I had never ventured into the Eastern Block except for a
quick trip to Prague in 1986, and our Middle Europe trip seemed my last chance
to do so for a while. Italian
Switzerland nearly touches Croatia, and Hungarian Budapest lies just to the
east. Tia and Sasha were enthusiastic
when they heard that Budapest’s is renowned for its thermal baths, so we
planned to cross northern Croatia and the Plitvice Lakes area on our way to spa
heaven.
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Feeding the birds at our Venice stopover on the way to Croatia |
As we drove through Italy towards the Adriatic, Venice
appeared on the coast. Venice! Who could drive by and not be tempted to
stop? So we spent the afternoon walking
the narrow streets to Piazza San Marco, enchanted yet again by this beautiful
city.
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Evening in Venice |
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Italian glory |
We arrived at our hotel on the Adriatic in the coastal city
of Lovran. We had just the morning to
indulge in a swim in its turquoise waters.
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Overlooking the blue, blue Adriatic in |
I’d promised the girls lots more swimming at what looked
like an enchanting teal-tinged series of lakes in northern Croatia, but alas,
the Plitvice lakes environment is so fragile and the tourist hoards so vast that no
swimming was allowed (even though a naughty Swedish family jumped in as we
walked by, making us all jealous).
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Enticing waters just out of reach |
We slogged through the over-the-top crowded trail after
waiting in line for more than an hour to pay the entrance fee. The waterfalls were beautiful, but hard to
enjoy when packed in like sardines. Not
recommended, at least in August!
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Oh, the crowds, the crowds! Like a Croatian Nature Disneyland. |
Then for three luxurious nights in Budapest. I’d not told the girls that we were staying
in a five-star hotel—our one big splurge on this vacation—and they pulled me
away from the door of the Corinthia, sure that this could NEVER be something
I’d booked! But it was, and I did. We lounged in fancy bathrobes and jacuzzied
and indulged in the fancy teas.
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Royal Budapest Parliament |
We splurged: the girls got chocolate massages, I got a honey
massage and wrap, and Todd got something called a Java massage. He looked wide-eyed and shell-shocked when I
returned to the sitting room after my massage.
“Have you ever gotten a Java Massage?” he asked in an ominous whisper. Turns out a Java massage is not for the
faint-of-heart, involving multiple contortions and excruciating muscle-to-bone
contact—not what Todd had expected. “Why
didn’t you tell her it hurt?” the girls asked Todd. Selber Schuld (German for “own fault!”)—Todd
didn’t want to seem the wimp.
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What Todd imagined |
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What Todd got |
Budapest is simply a gorgeous city. An amalgam of two towns, Buda and Pest, on
either side of the river Danube and connected by the world-famous Chain Bridge,
the city is both old and fresh, quaint and young, picturesque and hip.
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The famous Chain Bridge connecting Buda and Pest |
We walked the city for three days after going for our
morning spa, then returned to our fancy hotel to hop in the Jacuzzi again
before retiring to our plush rooms. We
found the best ice cream ever: salted carmel and a salted pistachio with nutella. Needless to say, we went back three days in a
row.
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Scrumptious |
From Budapest we traveled on to meet Helene Von Dam in
Vienna. Helene is a longtime friend of
my aunt Heide, and was Reagan’s personal secretary in both California and
Washington, D.C., before returning to her native Austria as ambassador.
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Helene writes about being Ronald Reagan's personal secretary and assistant |
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Just as poised, gracious and elegant...she's amazing. |
She took us on a whirlwind tour of the exquisite and grand
downtown, depositing us at the Kursalon for a concert that included a little
opera, a little ballet, a little symphony, and a little comedy in a small but
gorgeous 19th-century gilded concert hall.
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Viennese entertainment
|
We returned to dinner on her rooftop deck, and after
breakfast the next morning we visited the House of Music (everything you would
want to know about Vienna’s famous classical musicians) and walked to the
Hundertwasser house (a disappointing tourist trap), followed by dinner at the
open-air film festival in front of Vienna’s town hall—a monster screen showing
Swan Lake.
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Warm summer Viennese evening |
Our time in Vienna was far too short, but Stuttgart
called—my “home” town, where I’d lived nearly two years and home to my Kral
family. We passed through Bernau and
visited my grandmother’s grave, and stopped for dinner in Augsburg with Renate
and Rudi, my mother’s cousins, Augsburg being my mother’s birthplace.
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Renate and Rudi took us to dinner at the Fuggerei, a unique community in the heart of Augsburg |
In Stuttgart we had tea with Valerie, my “German” mother
(even though she is English!) in Erdbeerweg 4, where I’d lived as a
16-year-old, and reconnected with Rainer (my German dad) and his wife
Siggi.
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My German English Mama |
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Erdbeerweg 4 will always be home |
We reminisced over old stories
involving both my family and theirs. And
we squeezed in a brief visit with Rebecca and her family in Gundelsheim on the
way back to Frankfurt airport. (Rebecca
lived with us for a week during feria.)
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New friends |
Goodbye, Stuttgart, goodbye Germany, goodbye Europe. A fitting end to our time here! Now back to Spain to pack and head off to our
American adventure!
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Saying goodbye to Europe |
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